In 1588, the Armada of King Philippe II of Spain, on its way to invade England, wrecked one of its war ships a few miles away from the coast of Normandy. The ship, by the name of "El Salvador", was said to have a very valuable war chest and influent dignitaries on board. The story goes that the inhabitants gave the shipwreck location the name "calvados", vaguely sounding like the original name of the vessel. Later in 1790, the land area ashore, became the administrative zone or "Département" known today as Calvados.
The origins of Calvados
The first appearance of cider "eau de vie", at that time, not yet known as Calvados, can be traced way back in the past, since the first written evidence of its existence in the 16th century. Sire de Gouberville, gentleman of the Cotentin, describes in his journal dated 1553, the distillation of apple cider into an eau de vie. It is during that same period, around 1600, that was created the guilde of the cider eau de vie distillers.
Named areas of Normandy
In 1942, Calvados brandy became exclusively tied to its various growth areas in Normandy by an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée. Today, there are three controlled appellations:
- Calvados
- Calvados Pays d’Auge
- Calvados Domfrontais
The making of Calvados
Cider apples are collected by hand, and smashed before being pressed. The juice extracted from pressing the apples, is subsequently subject to fermentation under the action of yeast and becomes cider. To become Calvados, the cider will undergo single or double distillation and will be kept ageing in wooden barrels. It is within and under the skin of the apple, not in the pulp, that aromas can be revealed. The various steps taking place in the tranformation of the apple are therefore meant to extract as much aroma as possible from the skin. Once grated, the apples will soak a few hours softening the skin and allowing the extraction of tannins to transform the aroma of the juice.
A special cider press must be adapted to apple pressing. Low pressure extraction takes place during a brewing cycle of approximately two hours, during which grated apples are frequently stirred. Pulp and skin are slowly and thoroughly pressed during a churning process long enough to collect most of the aromas as a result. At the end of the cider pressing process, the produce has already acquired the amber and golden colours of cider. Two months after complete fermentation, the cider is withdrawn and left ageing for approximately one year prior to being distilled.
Distillation
Depending on the production area and the appellation, the cider will be further processed either in a single distillation in an alambic with columns, or in a double distillation (like a Cognac) in an alambic Charentais, composed of a « swan neck » and a cooling tank. The secret of a professional distillation lies with the height and the diameter of the cooling tank and the "swan neck" of the alambic. Keeping the fire is also essential.
The cider is distilled a first time to collect the "brouillis". This primary eau de vie is light and contains between 28 and 30% alcohol. It also contains all ingredients that are essential to the quality of the Calvados. When a second distillation takes place, the brouillis turns into Calvados. To qualify for the Calvados appellation, alcohol content must not exceed 72% in volume. In a process similar to cognac distillation, first and last produce of the second distillation are discarded.
When an alambic with columns is used, a single continuous distillation is effected. The first column collects the cider in its upper part. The cider then flows down from upper stage to lower stage. Due to the heat, lighter elements are vaporised. Steam droplets produced by reduced cider are moving upward in the same column while getting strengthened by the flow of cider and lighter elements such as: alcohol, esters and aromas. Finally, concentration takes place in the smaller column and delivers pure Calvados eau de vie at 72% alcohol content.
Ageing
The choice of barrels is key to appropriate ageing of Calvados and to its aromatic richness. The nature of the oak wood used to make the barrels is important, especially the soil in which the tree used to grow. The continuous exchange taking place between the eau de vie, the wood and the air circulation in the cellar strengthens and influences the Calvados. A sandy soil will convey a vanilla like aroma to the sap of the oak tree, while much less of such aroma would be imparted to the same trees taking root in a rocky soil.
Ageing in young barrels is conveniently long (around three months) to give the Calvados the vanilla like taste of the wood, and short enough not to overwhelm the original apple aroma and balance overall fragrance and taste of the eau de vie. After that, the Calvados continues the ageing process in older barrels to consolidate its qualities and get ready for consumption.
Slowly, the Calvados develops a more complex fresh and flowery bouquet. As it is getting older, the Calvados takes an increasingly amber colour, while the transformation of sugars, essential oils and other components makes it more rounded and intense.
Young Calvados are nice as aperitifs, with certain meals, and always welcome after a meal. Older Calvados are usually so potent in their taste that they are often appreciated either on their own, or with a nice selection of coffee accompanied by chocolate or a cigar.
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